The less told Hoysala temples of Belavadi

My May 2015 visit to the Hassan and Chikmangalur belt was an eyeopener for me as an individual to know about the Hoysala architecture and its history.The Belavadi trip was not a planned one and we came to know about this place through Nitin,who is the owner of Thippanahalli Home stay where we stayed for 2 nights in this trip.Once our stay in the home stay was through we were planning to go to Belur and then Halebid. Seeing our ignorance about the place,Nitin came forward and had a word with the driver who was knowing some of those places.He told him why not he drive to Belur through Belavadi and see the Veera Narayana Temple. He agreed and we started our journey towards Belavadi. 
As i was reaching Belavadi,one thing which i noticed in this part of the world was,the villages were really prosperous and in the surrounding villages of this place all the basic infra for the villages was available.The Indian villages in it's real glory can be seen in this part of the world.The ride from Chikmangalur was of 25-27 km distance.We reached the temple site in the afternoon.The temple was covered from all the sides by houses and the location was more or less covered rather than in an open space.The temple is now a protected monument and the same is protected by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).


Veera Narayana Temple,Belavadi
This temple was built way back in the 13th century by Veera Ballala II during the rule of the Hoysala empire. Belavadi has a small mention in Mahabharata where the Pandava prince Bheem killed the demon Bakasura and protected the village from the demon's attack.This temple is more known to the world as an architectural marvel rather than the sculptures which are there in the Belur and Halebid temples.As we enter the temple we will be greeted by elephants flanked on both sides of the gate.This temple is built in a 'Trikootachala' architecture which means the temple structure has three cells or 'Vimanas' .Each of them dedicated to Veeranarayana, Venugopala and Yoga Narasimha. The material used for building this temple is soapstone.


The entrance to the temple.
The chief attraction of this temple is the idol of Maha Vishnu in the warrior form of Veera Narayana. The idol in the center is of Lord Vishnu and this is the older shrine of the three.This shrine has got a two closed Mantapa,one with thirteen bays and one with nine bays.This shrine is the main temple shrine and the Narayana idol with four hands is considered one of the best examples of the Hoysala architecture.

Domical Bay ceiling art,Belavadi.
The other two shrines face each other across a long Mandapa. The shrine towards the south has an idol of Lord Krishna which includes a Garuda pedestal.For me this was the best Venugopal idol i had ever seen.As the priest opened the curtains for the puja,Lord Krishna in the tribhanga mudra (body bent at three places) with the flute came alive in front of me.I was speechless.I have never asked any priest in any temple, where puja is performed to take a photo of the idol,but here i was forced by divinity and i just asked him whether they allow photographing the idol.The answer was prompt and a definite no.Lord Krishna is surrounded here by 'Shravana kumars','Gopikas' and 'Gopalas'. On either side of the Lord Krishna are Rukmini and Satyabhama. The priest told me that ASI has granted this idol as the most beautiful idol among the Krishna idols in all of India.Truly after seeing it, i believed his say. 

View of Shrine and Tower over it from outside the temple.

Just on the opposite northern shrine was the tall idol of Yoganarasimha,sitting in a Yoga posture with a shanka and a chakra with Sreedevi and Bhoodevi standing on either side.We took the darshan of all the idols in the temple and took a 'pradakshina' around the place.


Outer Mandapa
Inside the temple,the architecture of the pillars and the architecture of the domical bay are some of the marvels which will keep you engaged for some time inside the temple.


Soap Stone Pillar,Belavadi
I spent around 45 minutes asking the intricacies of the architecture with the priest who was very educated and cooperative and was speaking in English.He explained to me almost the history which i had written above in a very detailed manner,some which i missed to write also and i heard only and forgot later.The polish on the soapstone pillars is so neat that it will give reflection of your face if you stand in front of the pillar.


Inner Mandapa
What surprised me and for which i had still not got the answer is,why this glorious temple is not marketed as a tourist place along with Belur and Halebid. This place has the potential of even surpassing the likes of Belur and Halebid in certain aspects of the Hoysala architecture.
I was not able to take photographs of the idols as the priest has told that it's not allowed in the temple.In all the temples which i had sees as of now i had never seen the idols of the Hindu gods as beautiful as i have seen in this temple.We should see this beautiful temple once in a life time.I thank Nitin of Thippanahalli home stay for guiding me in seeing this illustrious temple on our way back from his home stay.

Travel Tips

By Road: As we reach Halebid, this place is around 10 km from this place.From Chikmagalur its around 27-28 kms.

By Rail: Get down at Birur Junction and then take the road route to reach Belavadi. This is around 57 km distance.

By Air: The nearest airport is Kempegowda International Airport at Bangalore.There is a proposed domestic airport to be built in Shimoga. Once the same is built then the travelers can get down at Shimoga and take the road route to Belavadi which will be around 110 km, 

Thanks for your patient reading
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Copyrights Sujith Nair - ©SujithPhotography


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